Take a tour of the Ice City 2012

Every December an ice city appears in the central park of Irkutsk. The theme is different every year, but it generally features various animals made out of ice. This time, as it is the year of the Dragon according to the lunar calendar, a jolly looking fellow welcomes everyone at the entrance to the park:

The center piece of any ice city in Russia is, of course, the Yolka – a Christmas Tree. They used to have an actual fur tree back in the day. Now it’s just a metal construction covered with plastic fur tree branches. But it still brings cheer to the young and old alike.

Christmas Tree in Irkutsk 2011-2012The most important attraction of any ice city is an ice slide. The bigger, the better, of course!

Ice Slide in Irkutsk

Queuing up in the back of the ice slide.

Ice Slide, Irkutsk

Down we go!

The icey animals were a little crude this year. I hear the real masterpieces of ice sculpture are up for display in Listvyanka, which is a small town right on the shore of Lake Baikal, about an hour away from Irkutsk. But for us, city folk, these were still fun:

Bunnies made out of ice, IrkutskAn Owl made of ice, IrkutskA Pig made of ice, IrkutskThe ice was harvested right here in Irkutsk. You can see pieces of lake plants in some of the sculptures.

We even had a maze this year! Here’s something for Bozeman to consider for next year, provided it gets cold enough in Montana:

An ice maze, IrkutskI personally like seeing families out and about in the ice city taking photographs and having a good time:

An Ice Hut, IrkutskA reindeer sleigh made of ice, IrkutskOf course, there should be ponies and horses all dressed up to lure young kids and set their parents back a pretty ruble for a short ride around the park:A horse and a pony in the ice city, IrkutskA word to one of the sponsors of the whole affair:

A squirrel made of ice with a cell phone, Irkutsk

This pugnacious squirrel with a cell phone from the 1990's is advertising Baikal West Com, a cell phone service provider in Irkutsk. Many thanks, BWC!

And last, but not least, a shot with the symbols of the New Year’s Holidays – Grandfather Frost and his granddaughter, Snegurochka, or Snow Maiden:

Grandfather Frost and his grandaughter Snegurochka, Irkutsk

My friendettes, Tanya and Vica, posed for me in this -8 F weather.

I hope you enjoyed this taste of winter in Siberia!

Love, YN.

Broken Vitya

My friend Vitya broke. He crossed on the green pedestrian signal, and some speeding driver launched him. Flight. That’s when Vitya broke. Happens every day here. A lot.

The adventure begins.

Passers by pulled Vitya from the street. Thigh broke diagonally. Doctors screwed him back together. He laid in an 8’ by 16’ room with three more broken people. Two weeks passed. Doctors prescribed a 66 lb. cast. It was heavy. Drove Vitya crazy. When I came over, Vitya brandished a saw. “Cut that off!” said Vitya.

Yup.

So I did. Vitya felt better, lighter. Heal Vitya, heal. By God, may he be healed.

Breaking on through to the other side!

Unty: Reindeer Fur Boots

Custom made reindeer hide boots, made with a smile.

For between $566 and $700 dollars can get you into a pair of unty.

Winter Khatan Khan (Queen Winter) has gracefully spread the golden steppe, the viridian green taiga with her mink mantle of snow. As temperatures sink, Siberians bust out the fur in droves. It has become trendy again here in Irkutsk to sport reindeer fur boots, known locally as “unty”. Just a five minute walk from our apartment, Firma Kamoos is a small company that constructs unty. Everyday as I walk by, I wonder, just what they do in their workshop? Winter has come again, so I decided to go meet the workers and learn about their craft.

The Firma Kamoos team, keeping your tootsies warm when the thermometer freezes. Nickolai, Igor, Maria, Lyuba, Aleksei, Natasha.

Entering the front door, I was greeted with warm smiles, taking an edge off the cold, and suggesting they just might reveal a few boot making secrets. Svetlana Yurievna, one of the owners, said she would be happy to explain her boot making. Svetlana has been in the business 18 years. She cut her teeth in the Irkutsk boot factory that ran aground after the fall of the Soviet Union. She and her business partner left the factory and struck out on their own in 1994. While we chatted, customers kept filing in from the cold to check the fit on their recently completed boots. After helping customer # 3, and with more waiting for help, we acknowledged the futility of continuing our chat, she took me into the shop and delivered me into the deft hands of her boot making crew.

Where it all happens.

Maria joining hides.

Unty are made of “northern Deer” hide, or caribou (reindeer) as they are called in North America. Only the hide from the legs of reindeer can be used, and it takes eight pieces to make a pair of boots. Two reindeer/pair. Reindeer hides are shipped in by hunters in the north of the Krasnoyarsk region, Evenkiya, Norilsk, Tymen etc. Unty can also be made of elk or moose hide which are hunted in the Irkutsk region.

Siberians adapted unty from the Evenk people who are a native Asian nomadic people to Siberia. Much like the plains tribes of North America and Bison, the Evenk people, and other tribes such as the Tofalar, Soyot, and the Tsaatsan of Siberia and Mongolia respectively, live entirely off the reindeer.

Some excellent photography of the Evenk people and the Tsaatsan (or Dukha) can be seen at these links:

http://www.chrislinder.com/portfolio_reindeer.html

http://www.behance.net/gallery/Dukha-Lords-of-the-Taiga/585800

A new shipment of reindeer hides.

Reindeer hides were spread across the floor as the women sorted and matched them by color. Making quick work of the job, the women were back at their sewing benches in no time, sewing together skins, or trimming them for proper shape.

Nickolai is meticulous about his work.

Blade sharpening.

I sat down next to Nickolai, a silver haired fellow adroitly pounding nails into the soles of unfinished unty. Patiently, he explained the process of constructing reindeer hide boots from A to Z. There were many boot making terms I was unfamiliar with in Russian; Nickolai kindly elucidated each. Thank you Nickolai! In turn I sat down with most of the workers who shared their part of the boot making process. Maria and Tamara showed me how to trim the skins and how to sew them together with bee’s waxed heavy thread. Igor regaled me with tails of decending the white waters of Siberian rivers, bear and wolverine encounters while he sewed soles to boots. It takes two days to craft one custom pair of unty. With demand high and months of winter ahead, the Firma Kamoos crew will be cutting, pounding and sewing well into summer’s light.

Igor sews on a leather band, to which he will sew on the sole.

Igor working his magic.

And now, for your consideration, the steps to making unty:

  1. Wet skins
  2. Stretch skins
  3. Cut skins to shape
  4. Sew skins together
  5. Add boot lining
  6. Add felt liner
  7. Nail it to a form
  8. Sew on leather band around bottom (you sew the sole to this leather band.)
  9. Glue on felt sole
  10. Glue on rubber sole
  11. Sew all layers of sole to boot
  12. Add decorative motif and your reindeer hide boots are ready for Queen Winter’s worst!

    Lots of options to give your boots some flavor.

On my way out I stopped to shoot the breeze with Svetlana Yurievna. She told me how she loved her work, and how her crew was like family, how they truly enjoyed spending time together. Her crew has a great attitude, and I could see that they valued working at Firma Kamoos.  A feeling of warmth and goodwill followed me out the door as I stepped into the fresh snow still falling from a Siberian sky.

All Night Fish Fight

The Geologist, and the Shaman fishing boats in dock in Lystvianka.

Sunset over Baikal, forty-five minutes before we set off on a night of fishing.

Baikal had gotten rough; that was confirmed as a third fisherman poked his head through the railing to evacuate his innards into the sea. I had put my pole down, and was trying to get a good shot of the bow crashing through oncoming waves. Thinking of Lieutenant Dan unleashing his anger at God from the mast of a Bubba Gump Shrimp boat, I grinned. We were riding the “Northwest” on the back of bucking Baikal in the whipping wind, the stellar galaxies looking back on us from all directions of up. With the universe in full array and Baikal giving us a buffet, I couldn’t help but wonder at vastness of the Creator’s majesty. I enjoyed the ride, feeling a certain sense of freedom as the vessel heaved, things being entirely out of my control. It helped that several miles to our north the confident lighthouse glow on the hotel of that same name reminded us of where the Lystvianka port rests.  I kept my pole at the ready, to start fishing again the moment the boat slowed to an idle because I was behind!

Plowing waves.

Mark my fellow adventurer who invited me on this trip, giving technical advice.

We dropped our lines around 9 pm. After an hour and a half of no fish, I reeled up the first one! I felt charmed as the only foreigner on board among thirteen fishermen. As I said, I reeled up the first one. But I am used to standing in rivers. I had not yet mastered the reel and jerk, and I lost the blasted fish! And it was not the last one I set free!

A monster from the deep! Flee for your lives earthlings!

Corral that wriggler Mark!

But Baikal’s waves had somewhat leveled the playing field! I was still on my feet. I could fish, unlike a few groaning fishermen below deck, he he! Some of those boys had been pulling out one omul after another. Grrrrr! We were catching omul from depths of 30 to 60 meters. Ah-ha! Fish on! I reeled carefully and as silver flashed in our lights shining in water, I mentally prepared myself; reeled my fish to the surface and jerked! Tangled line! Radio antenna! I had to clamber up onto the bridge’s roof to free it. Meanwhile I swear one of the guys pulled in four fish as I untangled. Soon buckets were filling with silver fish. My bucket? Well, it wasn’t empty!

At the fish market, omul are a nondescript silver and black. Freshly caught they a delicate cerulean, rose and white.

And so went the night. Stars speaking from the past, a cold breath blowing on us. Lines searched the deep long into the dark Siberian morning. I went below around 4:30 am for a quick and toasty doze. Buckets moving on the deck above me said the boys were still reeling in omul. I shook my head and scrambled topside, cause I wanted more fish dinners. The boys fished until we hooked the sun and pulled it over the horizon.

Fishing for the sun.

Thirty greenbacks = 1000 Rubles, for a sleepless night of fishing and morning glow on frosty Baikal. A Siberian’s paradise!

The sun rubs his eyes and yawns, stretching his rays as he prepares to arc over the Hamar Daban Mountains.

We've pulled our lines, and are heading back to port in Lystvianka.

About Omul:  Omul are native to lake Baikal. They can only be found in the pearl of Siberia (Baikal), and you have got, got, got to understand how tasty they are! I mean T-A-S-T-Y! Baked with boiled or fried potatoes and a big dollop of sour cream? That is considered the height of fine cuisine in these parts. Never had some hot smoked omul? Friend, you haven’t lived. You got to get you to Siberia, Irkutsk or Ulan-Ude that is. Then make for Baikal because smoked omul is the bomb among fish!

After a long night's fishing, morning's rest.

This is Mr. S.

Meet Mr. S. He likes adidas sneakers and sharp jackets. He’ll drink coffee, an Americano or Nescafe instant. He’s a bit shy in a crowd, but meet him one on one and sparks fly, smoke billows and his mouth can’t keep up with all his amazing thoughts. He is the only one who has ever made me Pozi* on my Birthday!
S. likes to read his black book. He reads Matt, Mark, Luke, and John. And back to Matt again. We drink our coffee and ask each other, “How can God be a meal to eat?”, “No really, how DO you abide?”, and “Be holy because I am? Arrgh!” And we grow.
S. used to sit on the needle. Rehab, rehab, rehab. Let’s be done with rehab. So fold your hands with me friends and ask that Mr. S. keep his reading habit, and THAT IS ALL.

This! is Mr. S. (Read outloud to the cadence of "This! is CBS, for those of you who remember.)

*Pozi is the Buryat national dish. It is ground meat, onions, garlic, salt and pepper wrapped in dough and steamed.